Archive for the ‘Contracting and REO Renovation Tips 101’ Category

HOME WATER CONSERVATION: Money saving Tips

Thursday, November 11th, 2010
HOME WATER CONSERVATION. Start now in Spring for a Hot Summer

Water Conservation in the Home

 Here are 25 ways to conserve water in the home and yard.

 small drip from a worn faucet washer can waste 20 gallons of water per day. Larger leaks can waste hundreds of gallons.1. Check faucets and pipes for leaks

A small drip from a worn faucet washer can waste 20 gallons of water per day. Larger leaks can waste hundreds of gallons.

2. Don’t use the toilet as an ashtray or wastebasket

Every time you flush a cigarette butt, facial tissue or other small bit of trash, five to seven gallons of water is wasted.

 
3. Check your toilets for leaks

Put a little food coloring in your toilet tank. If, without flushing, the color begins to appear in the bowl within 30 minutes, you have a leak that should be repaired immediately. Most replacement parts are inexpensive and easy to install.
 
4. Use your water meter to check for hidden water leaks

Read the house water meter before and after a two-hour period when no water is being used. If the meter does not read exactly the same, there is a leak.

Inexpensive water-saving low-flow shower heads or restrictors are easy for the homeowner to install.

5. Install water-saving shower heads and low-flow faucet aerators

Inexpensive water-saving low-flow shower heads or restrictors are easy for the homeowner to install. Also, long, hot showers can use five to ten gallons every unneeded minute. Limit your showers to the time it takes to soap up, wash down and rinse off. “Low-flow” means it uses less than 2.5 gallons per minute.

You can easily install a ShowerStart showerhead, or add a ShowerStart converter to existing showerheads, which automatically pauses a running shower once it gets warm. Also, all household faucets should be fit with aerators. This single best home water conservation method is also the cheapest!ShowerStart converter to existing showerheads, which automatically pauses a running shower once it gets warm.

To cut down on water waste, put an inch or two of sand or pebbles inside each of two plastic bottles to weigh them down.

6. Put plastic bottles or float booster in your toilet tank

To cut down on water waste, put an inch or two of sand or pebbles inside each of two plastic bottles to weigh them down. Fill the bottles with water, screw the lids on and put them in your toilet tank. Do it safely away from the operating mechanisms. You can also buy an inexpensive tank bank or float booster. This may save ten or more gallons of water per day.

Be sure at least 3 gallons of water remain in the tank so it will flush properly. If there is not enough water to get a proper flush, users will hold the lever down too long or do multiple flushes to get rid of waste. Two flushings at 1.4 gallons is worse than a single 2.0 gallon flush. A better suggestion would be to buy an adjustable toilet flapper that allow for adjustment of their per flush use. Then the user can adjust the flush rate to the minimum per flush setting that achieves a single good flush each time.

For new installations, consider buying “low flush” toilets, which use 1 to 2 gallons per flush instead of the usual 3 to 5 gallons.

Replacing an 18 liter per flush toilet with an ultra-low volume (ULV) 6 liter flush model represents a 70% savings in water flushed and will cut indoor water use by about 30%.

It's easy and inexpensive to insulate your water pipes with pre-slit foam pipe insulation. You'll get hot water faster plus avoid wasting water while it heats up.

7. Insulate your water pipes

It’s easy and inexpensive to insulate your water pipes with pre-slit foam pipe insulation. You’ll get hot water faster plus avoid wasting water while it heats up.

8. Take shorter showers

One way to cut down on water use is to turn off the shower after soaping up, then turn it back on to rinse. A four-minute shower uses approximately 20 to 40 gallons of water.

There is no need to keep the water running while brushing your teeth. Just wet your brush and fill a glass for mouth rinsing.9. Turn off the water after you wet your toothbrush

There is no need to keep the water running while brushing your teeth. Just wet your brush and fill a glass for mouth rinsing.

10. Rinse your razor in the sink

Fill the sink with a few inches of warm water. This will rinse your razor just as well as running water, with far less waste of water.

Automatic dishwashers and clothes washers should be fully loaded for optimum water conservation.

11. Use your dishwasher and clothes washer for only full loads

Automatic dishwashers and clothes washers should be fully loaded for optimum water conservation. Most makers of dishwashing soap recomend not pre-rinsing dishes which is a big water savings.

With clothes washers, avoid the permanent press cycle, which uses an added 20 liters (5 gallons) for the extra rinse. For partial loads, adjust water levels to match the size of the load. Replace old clothes washers. New Energy Star rated washers use 35 – 50% less water and 50% less energy per load. If you’re in the market for a new clothes washer, consider buying a water-saving frontload washer.

In-sink 'garburators' require lots of water to operate properly, and also add considerably to the volume of solids in a septic tank which can lead to maintenance problems.

12. Minimize use of kitchen sink garbage disposal units

In-sink ‘garburators’ require lots of water to operate properly, and also add considerably to the volume of solids in a septic tank which can lead to maintenance problems. Start a compost pile as an alternate method of disposing food waste.

If your have a double-basin, fill one with soapy water and one with rinse water. If you have a single-basin sink, gather washed dishes in a dish rack and rinse them with a spray device or a panful of hot water.

13. When washing dishes by hand, don’t leave the water running for rinsing

If your have a double-basin, fill one with soapy water and one with rinse water. If you have a single-basin sink, gather washed dishes in a dish rack and rinse them with a spray device or a panful of hot water. Dual-swivel aerators are available to make this easier. If using a dishwasher, there is usually no need to pre-rinse the dishes.

14. Don’t let the faucet run while you clean vegetables

Just rinse them in a stoppered sink or a pan of clean water. Use a dual-setting aerator.

15. Keep a bottle of drinking water in the fridge

Running tap water to cool it off for drinking water is wasteful. Store drinking water in the fridge in a safe drinking bottle.

 Water Conservation in the Yard and Garden…

16. Plant drought-resistant lawns, shrubs and plants

If you are planting a new lawn, or overseeding an existing lawn, use drought-resistant grasses such as the new “Eco-Lawn”.

Many beautiful shrubs and plants thrive with far less watering than other species. Replace herbaceous perennial borders with native plants. Native plants will use less water and be more resistant to local plant diseases. Consider applying the principles of xeriscape for a low-maintenance, drought resistant yard.

Plant slopes with plants that will retain water and help reduce runoff.

Group plants according to their watering needs.

Mulch will slow evaporation of moisture while discouraging weed growth. Adding 2 - 4 inches of organic material such as compost or bark mulch will increase the ability of the soil to retain moisture.

17. Put a layer of mulch around trees and plants

Mulch will slow evaporation of moisture while discouraging weed growth. Adding 2 – 4 inches of organic material such as compost or bark mulch will increase the ability of the soil to retain moisture. Press the mulch down around the dripline of each plant to form a slight depression which will prevent or minimize water runoff.

For information about different mulch materials and their best use, click here.

18. Don’t water the gutter

Position your sprinklers so water lands on the lawn or garden, not on paved areas. Also, avoid watering on windy days.

19. Water your lawn only when it needs it

A good way to see if your lawn needs watering is to step on the grass. If it springs back up when you move, it doesn’t need water. If it stays flat, the lawn is ready for watering. Letting the grass grow taller (to 3″) will also promote water retention in the soil.

Most lawns only need about 1″ of water each week. During dry spells, you can stop watering altogether and the lawn will go brown and dormant. Once cooler weather arrives, the morning dew and rainfall will bring the lawn back to its usual vigor. This may result in a brown summer lawn, but it saves a lot of water.

20. Deep-soak your lawn

When watering the lawn, do it long enough for the moisture to soak down to the roots where it will do the most good. A light sprinkling can evaporate quickly and tends to encourage shallow root systems. Put an empty tuna can on your lawn – when it’s full, you’ve watered about the right amount. Visit our natural lawn care page for more information.

21. Water during the early parts of the day; avoid watering when it’s windy

Early morning is generally better than dusk since it helps prevent the growth of fungus. Early watering, and late watering, also reduce water loss to evaporation. Watering early in the day is also the best defence against slugs and other garden pests. Try not to water when it’s windy – wind can blow sprinklers off target and speed evaporation.

22. Add organic matter and use efficient watering systems for shrubs, flower beds and lawns

Adding organic material to your soil will help increase its absorption and water retention. Areas which are already planted can be ‘top dressed’ with compost or organic matter.

You can greatly reduce the amount of water used for shrubs, beds and lawns by:

– the strategic placement of soaker hoses

– installing a rain barrel water catchment system

– installing a simple drip-irrigation system

Avoid over-watering plants and shrubs, as this can actually diminish plant health and cause yellowing of the leaves.

When hand watering, use a variable spray nozzle for targeted watering.

23. Don’t run the hose while washing your car

Clean the car using a pail of soapy water. Use the hose only for rinsing – this simple practice can save as much as 150 gallons when washing a car. Use a spray nozzle when rinsing for more efficient use of water. Better yet, use a waterless car washing system; there are several brands, such as EcoTouch, which are now on the market.

24. Use a broom, not a hose, to clean driveways and sidewalks

Leaks outside the house may not seem as bad since they're not as visible. But they can be just as wasteful as leaks indoors.

25. Check for leaks in pipes, hoses, faucets and couplings

Leaks outside the house may not seem as bad since they’re not as visible. But they can be just as wasteful as leaks indoors. Check frequently to keep them drip-free. Use hose washers at spigots and hose connections to eliminate leaks.

Water conservation comes naturally when everyone in the family is aware of its importance, and parents take the time to teach children some of the simple water-saving methods around the home which can make a big difference.

Water Conservation Summary 

In 1990, 30 states in the US reported ‘water-stress’ conditions. In 2000, the number of states reporting water-stress rose to 40. In 2009, the number rose to 45. There is a worsening trend in water supply nationwide. Taking measures at home to conserve water not only saves you money, it also is of benefit to the greater community.Saving water at home does not require any significant cost outlay. Although there are water-saving appliances and water conservation systems such as rain barrels, drip irrigation and on-demand water heaters which are more expensive, the bulk of water saving methods can be achieved at little cost. For example, 75% of water used indoors is in the bathroom, and 25% of this is for the toilet. The average toilet uses 4 gallons per flush (gpf). You can invest in a ULF (ultra-low flush) toilet which will use only 2 gpf. But you can also install a simple tank bank, costing about $2, which will save .8 gpf. This saves 40% of what you would save with the ULF toilet. Using simple methods like tank banks, low-flow showerheads and faucet aerators you can retrofit your home for under$50.
 
By using water-saving features you can reduce your in-home water use by 35%. This means the average household, which uses 130,000 gallons per year, coulod save 44,00 gallons of water per year. On a daily basis, the average household, using 350 gallons per day, could save 125 gallons of water per day. The average individual, currently using 70 gallons per day, could save 25 gallons of water per day.When buying low-flow aerators, be sure to read the label for the actual ‘gpm’ (gallons per minute) rating. Often, the big box retailers promote “low-flow” which are rated at 2.5 gpm, which is at the top of the low-flow spectrum. This may be needed for the kitchen sink, but we find that a 1.5 gpm aerator works fine for the bathroom sink and most water outlets, delivering the same spray force in a comfortable, soft stream. Eartheasy’s online store carries a full range of low-flow aerators and showerheads.Finally, it should be noted that installing low-flow aerators, showerheads, tank banks and other water-saving devices usually is a very simple operation which can be done by the homeowner and does not even require the use of tools. Water conservation at home is one of the easiest measures to put in place, and saving water should become part of everday family practice.

A guide to Waterwise Gardening

The following “Seven Fundamentals of Low-Water Use” should improve your chances of creating a successful landscape.
 
Soil Improvement: Adding organic matter to the soil will help to retain water and provide needed plant nutrients. The depth to which this organic matter should be cultivated into soil depends on your design. Different plant types require different depths. Appropriate Use of Turfgrass: Lawns are our largest water user. Turf requires twice as much water as established drought tolerant plants. Smaller, rounded plots of lawn on level areas are easiest to water efficiently. Local WSU Cooperative Extension agents can assist in the selection of grass species and provide information on proper maintenance.

 There are a variety of irrigation technologies to choose from: surface systems, subsurface drip systems, timed and untimed systems, and hand watering.

Efficiency in an irrigation system is attained by keeping the system well maintained and applying water only as plants need it.

Efficient Irrigation: There are a variety of irrigation technologies to choose from: surface systems, subsurface drip systems, timed and untimed systems, and hand watering. Efficiency in an irrigation system is attained by keeping the system well maintained and applying water only as plants need it. Good soil preparation and proper plant selection can alleviate the need for irrigation altogether.

Use of mulches: Mulches reduce the amount of moisture that evaporates from bare ground. Mulches also help insulate plant roots during cold periods and deter weed growth. Organic mulches include wood chips, bark, straw, grass clippings, peat moss, and coarse sand. Mulches should be spread a few inches thick around plants and on any bare ground.

 Plants that thrive in the microclimate of the site should be selected, i.e. high and low temperatures, soil types, available sunlight, humidity and natural precipitation

Selection of Low-Water Use Plants: Plants that thrive in the microclimate of the site should be selected, i.e. high and low temperatures, soil types, available sunlight, humidity and natural precipitation. Plants native to our region are “best choices”. Some plants from the Mediterranean climates also do well here. Keep in mind that some low-water use plants have specific needs such as shade or hydric soils. Not meeting these needs can cause increased watering. There are many good reference materials dealing with plant selection and low-water landscape design. A reputable garden nursery person can also be helpful.

Evaluate existing conditions and assess your needs. What are your conservation goals?Planning and Design: Evaluate existing conditions and assess your needs. What are your conservation goals? How much time can you realistically devote to a garden? Start with a notebook, collect images, visit garden nurseries and professional gardens. Remain flexible and don’t focus on details too quickly; use “bubble” diagrams. Reinforce your shape through a variety of plant layers. Plan on 3/4 of mature size when estimating plant quantities.

Even drought resistant plants require additional watering until established (usually three to six months). Appropriate Maintenance: Even drought resistant plants require additional watering until established (usually three to six months). Planting should be done semiannually, in fall and early spring, to take advantage of natural precipitation. Weeds require a great deal of water to compete with other plants. During the first growing season it is important to hand-weed to prevent damage to the soil. Correct pruning to remove dead and diseased growth and promote the plants natural shape may reduce the plant’s water demands.

Desert plant landscape is called Xeriscape. This is a great choice for San Diego County. We live in a semi-arrid desert so this is a logical choice for your home.

Dutch Touch Inc. can design, install and maintain these for you.

This blog has essential information regarding conservation of water and will definately save you money on your water bill.

For more information, please visit our website:

http://www.dutchtouchcontracting.com/


Solar Panels = A 100% WISE INVESTMENT FOR YOUR HOME

Thursday, November 11th, 2010

Starting Your Smart Investment of Home Solar Panels

 Residential solar panel systems admittedly have beginning costs that are much higher than when power for everyday use originates from the local utilities or gas. This seemingly less expense brought about by the latter makes most home owners and builders decide on siding on the conventional power source.

 Still, it should be clearly explained that the solar panels for home use of today are not competitive with regards to costs and expenses. Right now, most solar power proponents not only fight for the home solar panels because of their environmental benefits, but it can likewise be an economical reason.

As years go by, conventional fuel as well as electricity is becoming more expensive; this makes solar panel systems more advantageous. And not only the solar panels for home use are cost-effective but sun-powered water heaters likewise offer great savings for the users as an effective means of solar heating. It is shown that the water heaters’ expenses and costs are at least 50 percent lower than the electric heaters.

 Besides the possible savings, there are likewise local and state financial incentives as well as tax credits which will sharply decrease the cost in the end. Solar panel systems indeed are the best alternative when comes to finding ways to replace the conventional power source. 

 Thinking about utilizing solar energy as a way of greening your life and lightening your environmental footprint? When choosing panels for your solar power system, there are a number of factors worth considering.

When choosing panels for your solar power system, there are a number of factors worth considering.

Solar panel costs

Costs vary widely depending upon the type, wattage and brand of panel. Additionally, the margins that stockists apply to their panels can differ tremendously.

You can pick up cheap panels on places like eBay, but given the size of the investment this can be risky if the merchant suddenly disappears or the sale of the panel is a sideline rather than part of the merchant’s core business focus. You’ll be spending a lot of cash, so you’ll want to ensure the person/business you’re buying from are renewable energy experts and in it for the long haul.

Calculating how many solar panels you’ll need

  This is one of the most asked questions and there’s no set answer – it’s all down to your electricity consumption, geography and other elements of your system. For example, if you have a stand alone power system as opposed to a mains grid connect, the capacity of your deep cycle batteries play a major role.

Here’s a quick and dirty formula. It’s based on watts rather than amps (amps would be more accurate) for the sake of convenience.

Jot down all the appliances you use.

Next to each, record their wattage.

Also next to each, record the numbers of hours of use.

Get a total for each and add those figures up.

Using the solar peak hours chart, gauge how many peak sun hours you get a day.

Divide the total wattage by the peak sun hours.

You’ll have a very rough guesstimate of the total wattage of panels you’ll need.

To gain a more accurate idea, some solar panel stores such as Energy Matters offer detailed solar panel calculators that will take into account issues like your geography and other elements of the system; e.g. whether you’ll have a grid connect or stand alone system and how much of your electricity you wish to generate via solar power.

Solar panels still aren’t dirt cheap, so if you’re switching to solar it’s a great time to also carefully evaluate your electricity use. The less juice you need, the fewer panels you’ll need and you’ll save a ton of cash. Don’t forget that many governments around the world also offer substantial solar panel rebates which can really help remove the financial sting from your purchase!

The cost of a solar panel is determined in part by the size (in Watts), the physical size, the brand, the durability / longevity (or warranty period) and any certifications the solar panel might have. Choosing a solar panel on price alone is not wise, as it may not fit the area you wish to install it, may not have the necessary certifications to qualify for government rebates, or may not have the warranty required for economic payback of the power produced.

Durability / Longevity / Warranty

  The durability or longevity of a solar panel is important for a number of reasons. Firstly, if the solar panel only has a 10 year warranty and it is used in a grid connect system you would expect the solar panel to produce enough power to pay for itself within 10 years.

Also, if the panel is to be used in a critical system you shouldn’t risk installing solar panels that aren’t as robust as the others. Reputable solar panels will have warranty a period of 25 years.

 Reputable solar panels will have warranty a period of 25 years.Solar Panel Size and Wattage

The size of the solar panel in Watts will directly affect the price, as solar panels are usually priced (and compared) in dollars per Watt.

Watts are related to the output of each panel; meaning a 100 Watt panel under ideal conditions will generate 100 Watts of electricity each hour and a 200 Watt panel will generate 200 Watts each hour. Therefore expect to pay double price for the 200 Watt panel, compared to the 100 Watt panel.

The output of a panel also affects the physical size of the panel, meaning the 200 Watt panel will be larger in size to the 100 Watt panel.

The type of solar cells used in its production also determines the size of the solar panel. They key issue to consider is that your system overall has enough Watts to power your appliances, and that the solar panels will physically fit in the area you wish to install them.

The size of the solar panel in Watts will directly affect the price, as solar panels are usually priced (and compared) in dollars per Watt. Solar Panel Efficiency

  There’s much debate about efficiency in solar panels, i.e. how effective the panel is in converting sunlight to electricity; but the key point to remember is that a 100 watt solar panel will produce 100 watts; regardless of its efficiency ratings.

 

Solar Cell Type

There are 3 main types of solar cells.

Mono-crystalline silicon

The most efficient and produces the smallest solar cells, and therefore the smallest panels.

Poly-crystalline (or multi-crystalline) silicon

Produces the next most efficient type of cells, but equivalent wattage panels are larger than their monocrystalline counterparts.

Amorphous (or thin-film) silicon

Uses the least amount of silicon and also produces the least efficient solar cells. This means thin film system take up more area than the other two, but it has the advantage of offering flexible panels that can be used on curved or irregular surfaces not suited to solid panels.

Solar Panel Suitability

Mono-crystalline and multi-crystalline work very well in bright cool conditions, whereas amorphous (thin-film) silicon will be more efficient at higher temperatures.

 We generally recommend monocrystalline or multi-crystalline for large unshaded roofs, and amorphous panels for roofs with partial shading.

 Regardless of the technology currently in use, a solar panel in full shade will only generate a small fraction of its rated capacity; so the “shade tolerant” features you may see advertised can be somewhat misleading.

 A solar panel is made up of photovoltaic cells, usually 36 all told, varying in size depending upon the watt/amp rating of the panel. These cells are made from two very thin silicon wafers approximately 1 mm thick; one with a positive charge and the other negatively charged. 

When exposed to the sun’s rays, electron activity is generated which is captured by a grid of very fine finger-like electrical contacts distributed across the panel. This is then channeled through the junction box on the back of the panel and emerges as DC (direct current) electricity.
Closeup of a polycrystalline cell showing the fingers of conductor material

Covering the silicon wafers is a layer of toughened glass, usually around 3mm thick. It has to be strong enough to withstand hail, extreme temperatures and a degree of flexing, but thin enough not to filter out or reflect appreciable amounts of light.

As silicon (which is made from sand) is also reflective; it requires a thin layer of anti-reflective material.

The back of the solar panel is made from aluminium and the panel is set into an aluminium frame.

Once the juice exits the panels, it travels along cabling. The size/diameter of cabling is of critical importance.

Cabling is critical

Once the juice exits the panels, it travels along cabling. The size/diameter of cabling is of critical importance. If it’s too thin for the panel’s output and distance to be covered, it’s a little like trying to pour a large volume of water through a small opening. There will be a loss of electricity as it will convert to heat along the cable to the point the cabling can burn out.

This handy DC cabling size calculator can tell you what diameter cable you’ll need for amp rating of the panel you buy and the distance there will be between the panel and the solar regulator or inverter.

Makes it all sound relatively simple doesn’t it? I’m still in awe that sun shining on silicon and a bit of wiring can generate electricity though, but each time I try to delve further into how panels work, my brain says “let’s go check out the latest Dilbert comic strip instead” 🙂

Monocrystalline vs Polycrystalline (Multicrystalline)

Rigid solar panels cell are usually made up of either monocrystalline or polycrystalline (aka multicrystalline) cells. Monocrystalline cells are cut from a chunk of silicon that has been grown from a single crystal. These are used in the more expensive types of solar panels and are more efficient in converting the sun’s rays to electricity.

A polycrystalline cell is cut from multifaceted silicon crystal. More surface area is required due to inherent flaws and these panels are less efficient in converting the sun’s rays. However, polycrystalline technology has closed up the performance gap in recent years.

Also, a 120 watt rated monocrystalline solar panel and a 120 watt molycrystalline panel are essentially the same thing – they crank out the amount of electricity.

The easiest way to visually identify the difference between a monocrystalline and polycrystalline panel is the polycrystalline has a shattered glass look as shown in the image above. Monocrystalline cells tend to be uniform in appearance.

Thin film solar panels

Thin film panels are created by the application of a thin layer of silicon directly onto various materials. It’s applied in such a way that flexible panels can be made. The need for less silicon will reduce manufacturing costs significantly in the time ahead.

Thin film panels are also less efficient that polycrystalline and monocrystalline panels, so a larger surface area is required. Again, peformance in thin film technology is constantly improving in the area of efficiency. Given the processes to create thin film, cheaper alternatives to silicon can also be used, such as cadmium telluride; although cadmium is frowned upon by many as it’s a heavy metal.

Sunlight isn't the same around the world. Even without cloud cover, different places on Earth receive varying levels of solar radiation.

The sun and geography

Sunlight isn’t the same around the world. Even without cloud cover, different places on Earth receive varying levels of solar radiation. When calculating the size and number of solar panels you’ll need; kilowatts-hours per square metre (kwH/m2), or more commonly known as solar “peak hours” need to be taken into account. This is the number of hours a day when the sun has maximum punch in relation to potential for electricity generation.

These peak hours are also measured against average winter sun; the time of the year when you’ll have the least sunlight. 

You can get an idea of how many peak hours of sunlight in your area by using using this solar panel calculator – the figure to look for once you type in your area is the “Solar Irradiation:” Whatever the kW/m2/d figure is, that’s your peak sun hours.

Solar panel orientation and angle

Again, this is dependent upon where you are in the world and also greatly varies with the season.

During summer, the sun sits a lot higher in the sky that during winter, so it’s best to “chase the sun” so you can to get the maximum oomph from your panels. However, this is difficult to achieve if the panels are sitting on your roof, so a happy medium is usually found. Basically, if you have the angle good enough to get you through the winter months, you’ll have no problems during the summer.

The general guidelines are:

Solar panels should face South in the Northern Hemisphere and North in the Southern Hemisphere

A solar panel’s angle should be set to the equivalent of your your latitude plus 15 degrees during winter, or minus 15 degrees in summer.

Solar panels and shade

Solar panels and shade simply don’t mix. While some panels claim to be shade tolerant, you will lose substantial charging power even if only a partial area of the panels is affected by shade. If one quarter of the panel cell area is shaded, the juice being cranked out will be virtually nil.

Solar panel care

One of the wonderful thing about solar panels is there’s no moving parts, therefore next to no maintenance! A wipe/brush down occasionally will help prevent buildup of dust and grime that can impact on effectiveness; but usually the rain will also take care of this. Other than that, a visual inspection of frame seals and wiring from the junction box is all that’s really needed.

Solar Panels are typically installed on rooftops, building tops, or stand-alone facilities. It is vital to install your solar panel so that it gets the most direct sun exposure

Solar Panel Installation Tips

Solar Panels are typically installed on rooftops, building tops, or stand-alone facilities. It is vital to install your solar panel so that it gets the most direct sun exposure. You want to make sure your solar panel is maximally effective year round. To do this, there are several web-based solar resources to help you properly set up and install your solar panels by tracking the position of the sun in the sky over the course of the year.

 Position your solar panel in direct sunlight

Solar Panels perform at optimum capacity when placed in direct sunlight. Try to position your photovoltaic array directly under the noontime sun for maximum efficiency from your photovoltaic unit.

Notice obstructions to sunlight

 Remove all items unnessary items or trim branches that may be blocking sunlight to your solar unit. Trace the path of the sun in the sky to determine if an object is casting a shadow over your solar photovoltaic panels. If this is the case, then the operating efficiency of your unit will undoubtedly suffer.

Mounting your Solar Panel

Solar Panel Mounts are used to install photovoltaic solar panels. Solar panel mounts come in three main varieties: pole mounts, roof-ground mounts, and flush mounts. Using these mounts, you can install your solar panel onto an RV, on top of or against the side of a pole, on your roof, or even install them as a free-standing unit. You can learn more about installing solar panels using mounts in our mounts section.

Water pumping with solar panels

 A good way to put solar panels to use is to install a solar-powered water pump for your well. Although windmills have traditionally been used to power such systems, a solar-powered system works just as well, and is equally friendly to the environment.

Your Well Pump

It is important to choose a quality well pump for use with your solar powered well pump system, one that makes the best use of your power and doesn’t require an inefficient, wasteful transformer. Your well drilling provider is likely to offer you the industry standard well pump, a 220 volt alternating current model. The problem with such a high-voltage pump system is that the required transformer is extremely wasteful and can be a huge strain on your inverter during startup. This can cause the power to home to dip, and the lights to dim, which can cause a full-out inverter failure unless you have a top-quality inverter. Avoid such a high voltage system if you can, and instead, opt for a 120 volt AC model, which is much more efficient and does not put nearly as much of a burden on your inverter.

The Solar Panel

Your solar panel does not have to have a very high wattage rating in order to run your solar pump, just check with your well-drilling company to determine what wattage rating you need from your solar panel. An important consideration when setting up an outdoor solar panel system for your well pump is to ensure that you purchase a mounting rack that offers plenty of clearance between the ground and your solar panel and keep in it an open area away from trees. You don’t want any large pets, floodwater, or falling branches to damage your system.

Solar Panels and Power Meters

As you purchase more and more solar panels for your home, your reliance on the city’s power grid will progressively decline until your power meter doesn’t turn at all. As you continue to buy solar panels, you wonder, what happens beyond that point?

What happens on the days when my home produces more energy from solar panels that it needs? Contact San Diego Gas & Electric or your local city-town electrical provider for that information. Contact your city and town government for tax incentives and ways that your local utility can pay you for selling your extra electricity to them.

Also, we recommend using a true sine wave inverter with your solar powered pump system. True Sine wave inverters tend to work better when motors are involved (such as those found in a water pump).

For more information, please visit our website:

http://www.dutchtouchcontracting.com/


Mailbox Installation and Postal Regulations 101

Wednesday, November 10th, 2010

Rain... sleet... gloom of night... no matter what the time or weather, one day your mailbox or post will require replacement.How To Repair or Replace A Damaged Mailbox Post

Rain… sleet… gloom of night… no matter what the time or weather, one day your mailbox or post will require replacement.
  

Thank you, snow plow… with an assist from the carpenter ants and termites!

The hardest part of a mailbox installation can be removing the old box or post! So I’m going to make the assumption that you wish to replace the box and the post. If I’m wrong, and you want to do just the box, I will have even less to tell you, but, if you scan down past the sweaty, smelly, earthwormy stuff, you may still pick up a few tips. I don’t exactly know where this tale is going, so follow along as best you can, and hopefully we’ll arrive at the end together!

Removing the old post… pray there’s no cement!

Sorry… I can’t make this easy! Wiggle it, pray for no cement, and pull like heck!! Then again, if you are pretty sure there is no cement, there is a strategy that can work, especially if you have a broken post with only a few inches exposed. Nail or screw a piece of 2×4 or larger lumber to the post at or within a few inches of ground level. Then, using a big pry bar or the mason’s bar, pry the post straight up, using another board, toolbox, or significant other as a fulcrum.

 Caution: don’t use a significant other as a fulcrum… if you expect your relationship to move to a higher level!!

A post set in concrete creates a whole new problem. If I found one of those foundation-like clumps of rocks and gravel mix when the digging started, my first choice was always to choose a new location for the box!

Occasionally, there just isn’t an option and the cement must be removed or moved. Yes… moved. Sometimes, it’s easier to dig the hole a little wider and muscle the ball of concrete aside. Install the new post next to it.

US Postal regulations regarding mailbox location and height

US Postal regulations regarding mailbox location and height

 
In order for the safe and efficient delivery of mail, the US Postal Service has issued regulations regarding curbside deliveries. However, the local post office has the final say in mailbox placement. The “old guidelines were:

 
Vertical height from road surface to bottom of mailbox: Between 41″ and 45″.

 
Distance from outside edge of curb or edge of road surface to front of mailbox : 6-8″

In order for the safe and efficient delivery of mail, the US Postal Service has issued regulations regarding curbside deliveries

This requirement dates back to February of 2001. However, the more recent requirements (12/9/2004) are less specific and do not refer to specifics of height and location. Instead, they require the post to be approved by the local post office and 2) accessible from the vehicle for curbside delivery such that the carrier does not have to leave his vehicle. That means that any obstruction, including parked cars, snow piles, etc. , give the carrier the option of withholding delivery until the obstruction is removed. 
 
If you are installing a post with an extending arm, figure the position based the final position of the box, not just the arm! Note that the arm will need to be much higher up if you plan to hang the box. (More on mounting the box below.)
 
If you feel your situation is unique or would like an exception to the rules, talk to your postmaster or ask your friendly postal carrier for suggestions. (This is when that little bag of Christmas cookies or envelope makes all the difference!)

Creating your own mailbox? Be careful...

Creating your own mailbox? Be careful…

If you plan on making a mailbox yourself, you should check with the postmaster or letter carrier to get approval before you spend time and money on it! A poorly designed mailbox can halt your mail delivery!

 
 

Choosing your new mailbox post – wood or “other”?

Plastic

 
There are a number of choices for mailbox posts. The most recent addition is molded plastic. Some make no pretence about being plastic, using flowing shapes, interesting colors and unique designs with integrated features such as newspaper holders. Others are made to look like painted cedar mailbox posts but for a fraction of the price and without the durability problems. As a whole, plastic mailbox posts are extremely durable and will outlast any wood or metal post.
 

Aluminum and galvanized steel

Metal posts are available in galvanized steel and aluminum. Both are durable, but the nod goes to aluminum. Because it doesn’t rust like steel, the finish stays looking good longer. However, aluminum posts tend to be more expensive.

Wood

Wood mailbox posts are the traditional choice, especially for do-it-yourselfers looking for economy. The cheapest and simplest post is a simple 4×4 or 6×6 post of any wood variety. A 3/4″ – 1″ thick pine, plywood or cedar wood base is attached to the top of the post and the mailbox is screwed onto it. The base should be sized to fit into the recess under the mailbox. On many boxes, you will need to leave some space at the door end of the base to prevent rubbing. Test the operation of the door before making the final box installation.
 
If you have more money to spend or want a more interesting look, you can buy a fancy-schmancy wood posts with a horizontal arm, complex supports and other ornamentation (or you can build one yourself). These are available in redwood, cedar and various untreated and pressure-treated woods.

Each type of wood has its advantages and disadvantages:

 

• Cedar and redwood are both very insect resistant, but are quite expensive and will eventually rot if buried. For the maximum “bang for the buck”, they require an underground preservative (see next section for details) applied right to ground level.

 
• Untreated woods such as Douglas fir and pine can be used for mailbox posts but require preservatives both above and below-grade. They have the shortest lifespan of any post, regardless of the preservative used since they have no inherent resistance to insects or rot.
 
• Pressure-treated wood has high resistance to rot and insects due to the infusion of a powerful preservative and will last longer underground than any other wood product. However, pressure-treated wood does need to be coated with a protectant above ground or may crack, twist and split rather dramatically!

 
• Masonry mailbox posts or enclosure of granite, concrete, stone and brick must conform to both local or state code as well as postal requirements. Though the postal service is silent on the post’s material, “rigid structures” at the curbside of busy roads may be considered a “safety hazard” by your state or town, so check with them before building one. (A customer of mine built a large brick mailbox enclosure on a main state road without consulting anyone. In the end, she had to pay for construction and destruction of that structure when the state ordered her to remove it. Let the builder beware!)

Pressure-treated wood has high resistance to rot and insects due to the infusion of a powerful preservative and will last longer underground than any other wood product.

Prepare your mailbox post for burial with the correct underground preservative. There was a time when this was a no-brainer. My father used to put good ol’ creosote on everything, except for my mother’s tulip bulbs. (Or did he?) It rivaled his use of Mobil red and blue paint! Anyway, it went without saying that the old timers expected the wood to rot, so they prepared for it with crosote… the only available solution.
 
Today, most wooden fence and mailbox posts are made from either pressure-treated wood or cedar. Somehow, in popular thought, cedar has been compared to pressure-treated wood for rot resistance. Nothing could be further from the truth.

CEDAR WILL ROT!!

I have replaced untreated cedar mailbox posts less than 5 years old, cedar lamp posts less than 3 years old that were totally rotten, full of ants and all sorts of other awful creepy wormy things. In my neck of the woods, a fine 6×6 cedar mailbox post costs well over $200.00 installed. Expensive ant food, if you ask me!
 
Pressure-treated mailbox posts do not rot under most circumstances. (I’ve never seen it happen in 30 years of installations.) They are more likely to die from snow plow or garbage truck injuries! However, I have heard rumors that, under some unusual conditions of extreme moisture, they may rot after many years. So if you have some underground rated preservative around, slap some on that pressure treated post. Otherwise I wouldn’t lose any sleep over it!

What type of preservative should be used underground on my post?

Good old creosote, a staple wood preservative for generations of do-it-yourselfers, has become extinct… joining the dodo bird, 30¢ cigarettes and the $1.00 gallon of gas! However, there are still quality underground preservatives available. A brand I have used for decades is Termin-8 by Jasco. Its dark-green color means you won’t mistake it for a wimpy deck sealer! Termin-8 is oil-based and can be painted after 2-7 days when thoroughly dry.
 
Another, somewhat newer product that works quite well is Woodlife Creocoat from Wolman. Unlike Termin-8, Woodlife is water-based and is not designed to be overcoated.

Since the end of your post is most vulnerable to water damage, pour some of the preservative in a small pail and set the post into it to soak as long as you can… overnight if possible. Cut off a few inches from the end of the post immediately before to soaking it for the best results. Of course, you should also coat the rest of the post right up to ground level for the best results.

DO NOT install a mailbox post in cement unless absolutely necessary!

Or a fence post, for that matter! Think about it. 160 pounds of rock-hard concrete mix, buried 18″ into the ground, in the only place the mailman can reach from his truck. Tough luck! So, using the secrets of the Pyramids, you manage to get this now useless clump of lime, gravel, and sand up to ground level. As you marvel at your improvisational skills, there is a lesson to be learned here and it doesn’t only apply to mailbox posts.

If you think that you may have to redo a job again sometime in the near future, design your repair so that the next time it will be easier… not harder! After all, do you really think a couple of hundred pounds of cement means as much to a moving vehicle (or the the carpenter ants) than it does to your poor overworked back? Hmmm?

NOTE: If you are installing one of those fancy ornamental iron posts, which generally don’t stand upright very well in soil despite what it says on the box, you can use cement… but just enough to stabilize the post, not enough to anchor the Queen Mary!

Digging the hole the easy way… but not too deep!

I was joking. There isn’t an easy way. But we’re not quitters, right? Buy or rent a post hole digger so you disturb the minimum amount of soil. The hole should be no more than 18-24″ deep. You do not have to bury the post down below the frost line! We’re talking mailbox post here, not a house’s foundation!

If you have particularly rocky soil, you may need a long mason’s bar, a rounded heavy steel bar from 4′ to 6′ long, flattened to a wedge-shape on one end. This can be used to pry out rocks and the flattened butt end can be used for tamping.On the graphic of the post hole digger (left), notice the black lines on the handles. They are improvised depth indicators… far better than dirtying up your tape measure! If you rent one and it’s not already marked, apply pieces of black electrical tape at your desired depth.

Add gravel, level the mailbox post and fill the hole in steps…

It’s recommended to put a 4-6 inches of gravel in the bottom of the hole to improve drainage and to keep water from pooling at the bottom of the post. My judgment is that it may not be a bad idea for cedar posts, but for pressure-treated wood it is optional. If you don’t have a bag of gravel handy (or prefer not to steal it from elsewhere in your yard), a bunch of small stones will do as a substitute.

To keep the mailbox post vertically level, I found a nifty little device that straps right onto the mailbox post. However, an ordinary level will do fine, too. Check the level every time you tamp down the dirt. You don’t want your mailbox to become another “leaning” tourist attraction! Don’t put the level on the top of the post… the top might not be square! Always check the level from the side.Some people screw or clamp boards to the post to hold it upright. You can also wedge a few rocks around the post in the hole for temporary support. Or just hold the new post fairly level as you begin filling, making minor corrections as you fill. (A helper wouldn’t hurt, either, if one is available to share the joy!) Filling the hole around the post should be done in steps, packing or “tamping” down the soil as you fill around the post, 6-12″ at a time. If you wait until the hole is full before packing, the post may always be loose. You can use most anything that will fit into the hole to pack the soil… a shovel handle, the but end of your masons bar, 2×4, etc. Keep checking that level!!

Installing your mail box on the post Dutch Touch contracting REO

Installing your mail box on the post


If you wish to mount your box directly atop the pole or onto the top of an extended arm, you will use method (1). If you want to hang the box beneath the extended arm, use method (2).

Whichever way you choose, don’t ever nail the mailbox to it’s support… use galvanized or stainless-steel screws. If your mailbox does not outlive your post, you want it to be easy to remove. I have found galvanized square-drive decking screws to be a great choice.

(1) Mount a board directly on the mailbox post or on the arm extending from the post


If you don’t have a board for the post, you must cut a piece of ¾” plywood or pine that will fit into the base of the mailbox. It should be a tight fit widthwise so the box doesn’t bend when you screw it on, and short enough in length so the box door doesn’t hit the board when the door opens. Position the board as you like it on the post or arm and secure it with at least 4 wood screws. I personally use #8 or #10 galvanized square drive screws, 2½” -3″ long. If you are using a post with an arm, you may want to let the board overhang the end of arm for clearance of the door.


(2) Hanging the mailbox under an arm extending from the post


You can purchase a special set of bolts designed for hanging a mailbox at most hardware or home stores. The hardware consists of an eye bolt and an screw eye, interlocked and ready to use. The eye bolt is screwed into the underside of the post arm and the bolt is attached to the top of the mailbox. It may or may not come with a rubber washer to seal the outside of the hole.


If your hardware store doesn’t carry these parts, you can either (1) use an eye bolt on the mailbox and a hook on the post arm, or (2) use an eye bolt and screw eye of the same size and bend either open to allow you to hook them together… then bend them closed. For each eye bolt, you should get two nuts, one for inside and one for outside the box, and a small rubber washer (a faucet washer will do) slightly larger than the nut, for the outside to prevent leaks.


Determine the location of the eye bolts on the box first. Some mailboxes have indentations or raised areas to indicate the suggested location for the eyebolts. Locate and drill the holes in the mailbox. Hold the box up under the arm in the position you want it, and use a pencil to transfer the location of the front-most hole you just made to the underside of the arm, being sure to center it along the width. Measure between the holes on the mailbox, and use this measurement to locate the second hole on the arm. Predrill both holes and install the screw eyes.


Put one nut on each eye bolt, and then push on the rubber washers. Bore out the centers of the washers with a drill if they are too tight for the bolts. Then put the eye bolts through the holes in the mailbox and secure them with the remaining nuts, tightening securely.

NOTE: You can use a dab of caulk instead of a rubber washer. The washer, however, will probably last longer.

mailbox numbers and other interesting facts Dutch Touch Contracting REO

Last but not least… mailbox numbers and other interesting facts


•The post office requires your street address number on the side of the box or post facing your approaching mailman. This is required even if you have your number on your home.

• If your box location is on another street (for example, if your home is on a corner), regulations require that both the house number and street name be on the box or post.

• You do not have to put your name on the mailbox unless you want to.

• Placing offensive graphics, caricatures or effigies intended to ridicule or disparage an individual or group of people is prohibited. People, huh. I guess the cats and cows haven’t started complaining yet!

• Advertising on mailboxes is also prohibited.

Again, this regulation can be waived by your local postmaster for the appropriate consideration. (Only kidding!) So it goes.

For more information, please visit our website:

http://www.dutchtouchcontracting.com/


Stainless Steel Restoration Services 101

Wednesday, November 10th, 2010

Stainless Steel Restoration Services 101  How to Repair Scratched Stainless Steel

Whether you can remove a scratch has much to do with how deep the scratch goes. Here are several ways to deal with this problem and restore your cookware, stainless steel appliances, countertops or sinks to their former glory.  

You have a shining, gleaming stainless steel and a kitchen that fairly sparkles. Then, it happens. Somehow there is an ugly scratch on the stainless steel refrigerator, oven, or dishwasher, and you can see it from across the room. It’s just about as obvious as a blemish on prom night. But you can restore your stainless steel appliances to their former beauty.          

STEP 1

Assess the damage. Determine if this is a deep scratch or a surface scratch, by running your finger across it. If you can actually feel the indentation, you have a deep scratch, gouge or ding. With clamps, carefully hold a small piece of dry ice over the gouged area. Hopefully,it will pop out, and not be as noticeable. Then you can treat it in the same way other scratched areas are treated in the steps below.        

STEP 2

Determine if the scratched appliance is “real” stainless steel or if it has a synthetic coating or finish. Damage to coated appliances is permanent.
These are all coated: Whirlpool – “Satina;” GE – “Clean Steel;” Amana – “Ultra Finish Steel;” Kitchenaid – Architect Series II, “Monochromatic Stainless;” Kenmore – “Ultra Satin;” Frigidaire – “Titanium;” Electrolux (all brands except “Classic,” “Icon” and “Electrolux”); Maytag – “Silver Ultra Finish,” “Satina Stainless Look,” “Monochromatic Stainless steel,” “Monochromatic Satina.”   

Also, coated stainless steel doesn’t smudge easily and is magnetic. You will only further damage the surface if you use a rubbing compound, or a product like Scratch-B-Gone, on a synthetic or clear-coated finish. If your appliance is coated, you cannot fix the damage.       

STEP 3

Identify the existing grain of the stainless steel. See which direction the tiny original brush lines go in the damaged area.         

STEP 4

Use an abrasive pad from the Scratch-B-Gone kit to repair scuffs, light scratches and even deep scratches. The kit has 4 different abrasive pads and instructions to tell you which one to use depending on the severity of the scratches and scuffs. Otherwise, go to an automotive shop and buy different fine grades of sandpaper.         

STEP 5

Apply a small amount of Ultra Shine from the Scratch-B-Gone kit onto the appropriate abrasive pad. Or use an automotive rubbing compound on the sandpaper.      

STEP 6

Begin rubbing the damaged area of the stainless steel in the direction of the grain covering over about a 5-inch area at a time. Slide the pad backward and forward increasing pressure as needed until you see the scratch is disappearing.        

STEP 7

Repeat this process until the scratch is removed and the surface is restored. For a deeper scratch, dry rub the area with the coarse pad, and wipe area off with a microfiber cloth to make sure the scratch is gone.      

STEP 8

Blend the metal surfaces by using the finest grade sandpaper or abrasive pad with the rubbing compound or Ultra Shine and gradually increase the area around the original damage to about three times the original scratched area. Be sure to go with the existing grain of the stainless steel so you don’t create crosshatching.
How to Shine Stainless Steel Appliances

How to Shine Stainless Steel Appliances

Bright, shiny stainless steel appliances can add a nice touch of class to a kitchen, but if they aren’t properly cared for, they will lose their lovely patina. With just few simple steps, you can keep those stainless steel appliances bright and shiny for many years to come     

STEP 1

Apply baby oil to the stainless steel appliance with a soft, dry cloth.     

STEP 2

Rub it on well, making sure all of the appliance has been coated with baby oil.   

STEP 3

Apply a stainless steel cleaner to the area with a soft cloth. Follow up with a stainless steel polish to bring back the shine.  

STEP 4

If the scratch is still there or if you can put your fingernail in the scratch, you may have to try fine grit sand paper. Sand the area and go outside the scratch by one or two inches as you did before, following grain of the metal.        

STEP 5

After sanding, use the coarse side of the finishing pad. Flip the pad over and use the fine side to help smooth the surface out.   

STEP 6

Follow up with using a stainless steel cleaner and apply with a soft cloth. Use a polish afterward to help restore the metal to its original shine.      
Do not use abrasive cleaners containing bleach or it could scratch the metal. Do not use abrasive cleaners containing bleach or it could scratch the metal. Use cleaners specifically designed for stainless steel or others such as white vinegar, Windex, club soda, rubbing alcohol or ammonia, which are safe and will not harm the surface. Just because a product is for stainless steel it still may be acidic or slightly abrasive and you should proceed with caution when using. Always use soft cloths to clean such as micro fiber to prevent scratches. You may have to consult a professional for very deep scratches or scuffs.      
Always use soft cloths to clean such as micro fiber to prevent scratches. You may have to consult a professional for very deep scratches or scuffs.   

How to Get Corrosion Off of Stainless Steel Appliances

Stainless steel is a steel alloy that is incredibly resistant to rust and corrosion; it is commonly used in building or decoration. The visual beauty of stainless steel makes it a popular choice as a finish for home appliances. However, although stainless steel is incredibly resistant to wear, it is not indestructible. Proper care can prevent nearly all rust or corrosion, but in rare cases, your appliances can show wear. Luckily, it only takes a few steps to clean stainless steel.  

Things You’ll Need:

Soft cloth
Mild detergent
Stainless steel cleaner   

 Step 1

Wipe the appliance down with a wet rag to remove any debris, grease or oils from the surface.  

Step 2

Dry the appliance with a soft cloth or towel.  

Step 3

Apply a small amount of mild detergent such as dish soap to a wet rag, until the rag is sudsy. Wipe the appliance down, applying mild pressure.  

Step 4

Clean off any remaining soap from the appliance and dry.  

Step 5

 Apply stainless steel cleaner to your appliance, and buff with soft cloth. Rinse with wet cloth.  

Step 6

Dry the appliance one last time, making sure to leave no residue of water or cleaner on the appliance.  

How To Remove Rust From Stainless Steel

Though stainless does have incredible resistance to oxidation and corrosion there are still major factors that can lead to different types of corrosion. Corrosion of stainless can come from moisture from the ocean and air, humidity and temperature from weather, as well as the oils and skin secretions from people.

 
The best method to remove rust from stainless steel that we’ve found is to use Bull Frog Rust Remover. This rust remover will remove the rust and it has proven itself safe on the stainless steel finish.


To use Bull Frog Rust Remover on stainless steel, just apply the product to the rust stained surface. Let the rust remover work for half an hour, and then wash off with water. If the rust stain remains, repeat the process but leave the rust remover on for an hour.

Again, rinse off the rust remover.Using Bull Frog Rust Remover has advantages over traditional abrasive methods. First, this method is very quick to apply. Secondly, and most important, is the end result. Using abrasive methods can lead to a sanded looking finish on the rust stained area. Keeping the original finish on the stainless steel is important to the overall appearance of the stainless steel. (Source: theruststore.com)


To prevent corrosion, all stainless steel should be kept cleaned and coated with a corrosion prevention coating. In salty and humid environments they should be washed more regularly as salt can accelerate the rusting process.

How to clean stainless steel

1. Water and a cloth. 

Routine cleaning can be accomplished by using warm water and a cloth. This is the least risky option for cleaning stainless steel. Dry with a towel or cloth to prevent water spots. Wipe in the directions of the polish lines.

 2. Mild detergent, (dish washing liquid) and cloth.   

For cleaning that needs more power, mild detergent and warm water can do a great job without damaging the stainless steel. Make sure you rinse the surface thoroughly to prevent staining and spotting. Towel dry to prevent water spots which can be caused by minerals in water.   

3. Glass cleaner for fingerprints.

Fingerprints are one of the biggest complaints about stainless steel, but can be taken care by using glass cleaner or household ammonia. Rinse thoroughly and towel dry. There are some newer types of finishes for stainless steel that resist fingerprints, a must if your pint-sized helpers leave their mark on your stainless steel appliances.   

4. Stainless Steel Cleaner

If you’ve had staining or scratching, or need to polish your stainless steel, a stainless steel cleaner may be a good option. Some of these cleaners and polishes can help minimize scratching and remove stains. They also can polish stainless steel surfaces nicely. Read the directions on the stainless steel cleaner and test in an inconspicuous spot. Be sure to rinse thoroughly and towel dry.  

Tips and Warnings

1. Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands.

2. Keep stainless steel appliances clean, because dirty appliances will lose their shine very quickly. Wipe them often to remove kitchen grease, using a damp sponge or rag soaked in hot, soapy water. Dry the appliance thoroughlyt with a soft towel. Wipe against the grain and with the grain of the stainless steel

3. Remove fingerprints from stainless steel appliances with window cleaner, and wipe them dry.

4. For a quick shine, put some club soda in a spray bottle and lightly mist the stainless steel appliance. Follow up by drying the appliance with a soft cloth.

5. Never use bleach on stainless steel appliances. It will react with the steel and can cause staining.

6. Never use brushes or steel wool on stainless steel appliances. They can scratch the stainless steel and cause rust to form.

Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands.

How to Get Scratches Out of Stainless Steel Appliances

Stainless steel appliances can be sharp and modern when they are gleaming, shiny and new. However, it can be easy to scratch up a stainless steel surface and this can take away from its luster. There are a few things that can be done to remove scratches from stainless steel. It just takes a few materials and a little effort to get your appliances back to their original state and shine.
 
1. Use the coarse side of a finishing pad on the scratch if it is minor. Be sure to follow the grain of the metal. Overlap the area by one or two inches on each side, which will help it to blend in with the surrounding metal. Flip the pad over and use the fine side of the pad to smooth out the area.

For more information, please visit our website:

http://www.dutchtouchmaids.com/Stainless_Steel_Index.shtml


Bank Owned (REO) Contracting and Cleaning Tips

Wednesday, November 10th, 2010

Bank Owned (REO) Contracting and Cleaning Tips

REO foreclosed homes are left vacant with items still inside them. Previous owners who became delinquent and behind in their mortgage payments end up leaving all their personal belongings behind. Business is booming for those who see an opportunity to be the one cleaning out these foreclosures.  

How to get started in debris cleanup.

Some have suggested that all that one needs to get started is to advertise on the free classified sites letting others know of your services. Charge an hourly rate or a flat rate. It has also been mentioned that you will need to include the cost of the dumpster rental as well as any man power you will need to help you with moving items out and painting if necessary. Print up flyers and contact realtors who sell REO properties, so that you can get repeat referrals. The types of businesses that will need your services are Homeowners, Property Managers, Realtors, REO Agents, Property Investors, Landlords, Tenants, Bank Foreclosures. So look at ways to contact them directly with your price. 
 
How much should you charge to clean up a trashed out foreclosure home?

How much should you charge to clean up a trashed out foreclosure home?First you should do some research and find out what the going rates are in your area, be competitive and try to get as many clients as possible and then as they say the snowball will start rolling and getting bigger from their. Real Estate investors will have a list of foreclosed homes that need to be cleaned contact them and let them know you can help them out, find out how much they were quoted in the past. Most pricing is based on cubic yards and weight ot the junk. The going rate is $500 or more depending on what is needed to be done. It can range upwards of $1000 dollars. 

How to get started in debris cleanup.

Starting a cleaning business can help people who do not have the time or the resources to do it themselves. REO’s are not the only places to clean up, people who are moving or those who has a family member die or those who are going through divorce may not want to go through all the stuff in the house and would rather someone come and remove the debris or junk.


Garages are another place people store many items that just ends up collecting dust. Collectibles, antiques and valuables can be saved and put into storage, but most other items will have to go to the dump. Declutter and organization services can be offered as well.

Some of the more popular services include: clean-out service. Included is the clean-up of all interior and exterior trash and debris, carting and disposal of all unwanted items. Professional overall cleaning, including sweeping, countertop and window cleaning.

For more information, please visit our website:

http://www.dutchtouchcontracting.com/